Cory Sale

How to Make Tofu

csale — Mon, 02 Sep 2024 13:00:00 +0000

How to Make Tofu csale Mon, 09/02/2024 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/header_0.jpg.webp?itok=yG6ygMOG September 2, 2024

By Cory Sale

Cory Sale is the Senior Public Relations Manager at ICE and an alumna (Culinary Arts '22). She enjoys writing about seasonal produce almost as much as visiting NYC’s greenmarkets, where she finds new flavors to add to ice cream. When she’s not cooking (or eating), you can find her on the frisbee field chasing down a piece of plastic.

Tofu is a unique food. It is a powerhouse plant-based protein, but is somewhat bland on its own and looks like a white, spongy, brick floating in water. Though it may not look like much, tofu's texture and taste (or lack thereof) are its culinary superpowers.

Here’s what you need to know about tofu: how to store it, its health benefits and how to make it at home.

What Does Tofu Taste Like?

Plant-Based Culinary Arts Chef-Instructor Rich LaMarita has lots of experience with tofu. In terms of flavor, tofu tastes a little bit like a bean, but mostly has a neutral profile. In this way, it acts as a blank canvas to soak up flavor, enabling it to be used in sweet and savory dishes.

Chef Rich likes to pair soy sauce and pickled ginger with tofu. For his take on vegan lasagna, Chef Rich whipped up a tofu ricotta, incorporating white miso, lemon, garlic, and umeboshi paste to mimic the flavor of cheese.

The versatility of tofu isn’t just in its flavor, but also the texture.

“[It] can be manipulated from silky smooth to spongy and meaty,” ICE Director of Nutrition Celine Beitchman says.

There are many different types of tofu available, the most common being firm block tofu and silken tofu. Both have a range of culinary applications.

“Silken tofu can be pureed into smoothies and custards or subbed in for an egg or two in baking,” Chef Celine says. “Firm styles can be roasted, grilled, crumbled, scrambled or formed, and even pan-fried.”

Tofu skewers made by a Plant-Based Culinary Arts student.

How to Make Tofu

Tofu is made from soybeans. When making tofu at home, white soybeans are soaked overnight in water and then blended with an equal amount of the soaking liquid. Chef Rich recommends using a strong blender like a Vitamix, as the beans will need to blend for one to two minutes, until you’ve reached a smooth consistency.

The mixture is then heated just to a boil and then strained, resulting in fresh soy milk. The pulp that is strained out is called okara, and can be used in baking.

Chef Rich points out that you could stop here and save the soy milk. To sweeten, the milk can be mixed sugar, chocolate or brown rice syrup, which is Chef Rich's preference. Fresh soy milk will only last for about a week in the refrigerator, which is much shorter than store-bought versions due to the absence of preservatives.

To continue with the tofu making process, simmer the soy milk gently to intensify its flavor. Once the mixture is off of the heat, add the coagulant. Chef Rich says that nigari salt is a traditional coagulant, but vinegar is also a good substitute. He uses a solution of one teaspoon of nigari salt dissolved in eight ounces of water, and adds it in thirds, giving the curds time to separate between each addition.

Once the curds have formed, scoop them into a tofu press to solidify and drain excess liquid. Traditional tofu presses are wooden, but there are plastic models that can make the process easier. They have a crank to push down on the tofu and holes on the bottom for easy drainage.

The tofu is edible right away, and will firm up based on how long the curds sit and compress, which is how soft, medium, firm and extra-firm blocks are made.

A block of tofu made by Chef Rich.

How to Store Tofu

Fresh tofu will last in the fridge for seven to ten days. Make sure it is completely submerged in fresh water or it can go bad even sooner, advises Chef Rich.

If you don’t want to eat the whole block at once, simply cut off what you plan to consume and then add fresh water to store it again.

The Health Benefits of Tofu

From a nutrition perspective, Chef Celine says “three ounces of tofu – about the size of a deck of cards, have as much protein as one egg. The firmer the style, the more protein the tofu has.”

Chef Celine also touts tofu's calcium and iron density as huge bonuses.

“When we think about good food sources of calcium and iron, we typically think of animal foods," Chef Celine says. "But three ounces of tofu has as much calcium as 10-12 ounces of milk, and as much iron as three ounces of steak.”

Even though there are only two ingredients, make sure to plan ahead because the tofu making process takes time.

Fresh Tofu

Yield: 10 oz block firm tofu

14 ounces (400 grams) dried white soybeans, soaked overnight in 3 quarts (3 liters) water, and drained with soaking liquid reserved
2 teaspoons nigari salt

Special Equipment:

Fine chinois
Cheesecloth (rinsed)
Tofu press

Line a tofu mold with two layers of wet cheesecloth. Set aside.
Heat a quart of the reserved soaking liquid in a 2-gallon pot over medium-high heat.
Puree soybeans in two batches with remaining soaking liquid in a high-speed blender (about 2 minutes per batch). Add the puree to the pot with heating liquid. Stirring constantly, bring the contents of the pot to boil.
Strain the mixture through a fine strainer into a second large pot, pressing out all excess liquid. Discard the solids or reserve for another use.
Bring the strained soy milk to boil. Reduce the heat and gently simmer uncovered for 10 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat.
Dissolve nigari salt in eight fluid ounces of cold water. Add one-third of the mixture slowly to the hot soy milk, gently stirring to mix. Cover the pot and allow to stand for 3 minutes or until the milk has separated into soft white curds.
Add remaining nigari solution in two more batches, stirring each time and covering for 3 minutes. The soy milk should be completely separated into curds and whey before pressing.
Using a slotted spoon, spoon the curds into the tofu mold and press with a 2-3-pound weight for about 30 minutes until firm and solid.

For more tofu inspiration, check out Chef-Instructor Olivia Roszkowksi’s lapsang souchong tea marinade which includes maple syrup, tamari, sesame oil and balsamic vinegar.

Vegan Plant-Based Culinary Arts Plant-Based Culinary Technique

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Recipe steps

Line a wooden tofu mold with two layers of wet cheesecloth, set aside.

Heat a quart of the measured water in a 2-gallon pot over medium-high heat.

Puree soybeans in two batches with remaining water in a high-speed blender (about 2 minutes per batch). Add puree to pot with heating water. Stirring constantly, bring contents of pot to boil.

Strain mixture through fine conical strainer into a second large pot, pressing out all excess liquid. Discard solids or reserve for another use.

Bring strained soy milk to boil. Reduce heat and gently simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes. Remove pot from heat.

Dissolve nigari in eight fluid ounces of cold water. Add 1/3 of mixture slowly to hot soy milk, gently stirring to mix. Cover pot and allow to stand 3 minutes or until milk has separated into soft white curds.

Add remaining nigari water in two more batches, stirring each time and covering for 3 minutes. Soy milk should be completely separated into curds and whey before pressing.

Using a slotted spoon, spoon the curds into the tofu mold and press with a 2-3-pound weight for about 30 minutes until firm and solid.

Sweet Corn Arepas with Caramelized Cherry Tomatoes

csale — Fri, 23 Aug 2024 13:03:41 +0000

Sweet Corn Arepas with Caramelized Cherry Tomatoes csale Fri, 08/23/2024 - 09:03 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/header.jpg.webp?itok=A-Iu5UYK August 23, 2024

By Cory Sale

The Institute of Culinary Education has teamed up with GrowNYC for a monthly series highlighting a seasonal ingredient at the greenmarket.

We’re back at the market to enjoy the last bounty of summer's produce, and we tapped Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Luisa DeGirolamo to experiment with some of the season's defining ingredients: corn and tomatoes.

Inspired by her Colombian heritage, Chef Luisa decided to make arepas. The arepa dough in her recipe consists of masarepa, a finely ground precooked cornmeal, and a purée made from roasting fresh corn in the husk.

Chef Luisa explains that, in her culture, arepas can be served with any meal but are commonly eaten with breakfast. In comparison to the Venezuelan versions, which are cut and filled, Colombian arepas are sweeter, unfilled and often served simply alongside cheese or salsa.

With tomato season peaking in July and August, Chef Luisa opted to caramelize the fruit as a topping. The slightly-sweet tomatoes have a jammy consistency that pairs well with the crispy arepas. Caramelizing the tomatoes also makes the whole dish easy to eat since the tomatoes aren’t rolling off.

More Greenmarket Produce Recipes: Sweet and Savory Galettes

This dish hits all the notes. Pan frying the arepas results in a crunchy exterior and a soft, sweet interior from the corn purée in the dough. Caramelizing the tomatoes amps up their natural sugars. The arepas are topped with salty queso fresco and a fresh and acidic cilantro lime vinaigrette to seal the deal.

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Chef Luisa says she loves taking traditionally savory dishes and re-imagining them with a sweet twist. Get her recipe below.

Sweet Corn Arepas with Cilantro Lime Vinaigrette and Caramelized Tomatoes

Yield: approximately 30 mini arepas

Sweet Corn Arepas:

154 grams water
21 grams oil
4 grams salt
145 grams masarepa
50 grams corn purée

Corn Purée

360 grams corn, about 4 ears (husk on)
56 grams butter, softened
Sea salt
Pepper
Lime juice, to taste

Cilantro Lime Vinaigrette

75 grams cilantro (including stems)
100 grams avocado oil
35 grams vinegar
70 grams lime juice
40 grams honey
Salt and pepper to taste

Caramelized Tomatoes

12 cherry tomatoes
Granulated sugar

Sweet Corn Arepas:

Combine water, oil, salt and sugar in a bowl. Add masarepa and mix by hand. Add corn purée and mix. If the dough is too firm, add a little more water or purée.
Let the dough rest for at least 30 minutes.
Using a small cookie scoop, scoop all the dough and shape into patties using a little warm water in between your hands.
In a cast iron pan over low to medium heat, add a little butter and oil and brown arepas on both sides.

Corn Purée

Roast the corn with the husk on at 400˚F for 35 minutes.
Remove the husks and cut off the kernels. Blend the kernels with butter, salt, pepper and lime juice.

Cilantro Lime Vinaigrette

Blend all ingredients together until smooth.

Caramelized Tomatoes

Quarter the cherry tomatoes, sprinkle with sugar and caramelize on both sides.

To Assemble:

Top the arepas with queso fresco and caramelized tomatoes and drizzle with cilantro lime vinaigrette.

Vegetables Recipe Summer

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Recipe steps

Combine water, oil, salt and sugar in a bowl. Add masarepa and mix by hand. Add corn purée and mix. If the dough is too firm, add a little more water or purée.

Let the dough rest for at least 30 minutes.

Using a small cookie scoop, scoop all the dough and shape into patties using a little warm water in between your hands.

In a cast iron pan over low to medium heat, add a little butter and oil and brown arepas on both sides.

Roast the corn with the husk on at 400F for 35 minutes.

Remove the husks and cut off the kernels. Blend the kernels with butter, salt, pepper and lime juice.

Blend all ingredients together until smooth.

Quarter the cherry tomatoes, sprinkle with sugar and caramelize on both sides.

Top the arepas with queso fresco and caramelized tomatoes and drizzle with cilantro lime vinaigrette.

Sesame-Miso S’mores Recipe

csale — Thu, 08 Aug 2024 13:00:00 +0000

Sesame-Miso S’mores Recipe csale Thu, 08/08/2024 - 09:00 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Smores%20Header.jpg.webp?itok=0mGzJbve August 8, 2024

By Cory Sale

Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Kierin Baldwin put her spin on this classic summer treat for National S’mores Day.

S’mores have been around since 1927, and there’s a reason why this campfire classic has its own day, which falls on August 10. Who can resist a toasted, golden-brown marshmallow, puffed, fluffy and gooey, and sandwiched between graham crackers and melting chocolate?

Fans have been innovating on this dessert snack for years, swapping in peanut butter cups and cinnamon graham crackers, to make this treat their own.

Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Kierin Baldwin took it a step further, creating three unique s’mores with distinct flavor profiles: Sesame-Miso, Cinnamon Toast and Brooklyn Blackout.

“To put my own twist on the traditional s’more, I thought about variations on its three elements, considering different types of cookies and chocolate and figuring out what flavored marshmallows could connect them,” Chef Kierin says. “I drew on classic flavor combinations, dishes with chocolate as an element, and flavors I like. For example, the Sesame-Miso S’more is inspired by a tahini chocolate chip cookie that I love.”

The Sesame-Miso S’more consists of sesame cookies, milk chocolate and a miso-flavored marshmallow. A chocolate lover's dream, the Brooklyn Blackout utilizes chocolate cookies, a chocolate marshmallow and dark chocolate. And playing on cinnamon toast cereal, the last s’more incorporates griddled, buttered white bread, caramelized white chocolate and a cinnamon-flavored marshmallow.

Chef Kierin worked with marshmallows during her time in restaurant pastry kitchens in New York City. Though they weren’t served as s’mores, she made marshmallows that were incorporated in petit fours and others that were flavored and served on cookie plates at The Dutch, one of her former restaurant kitchens.

Flavoring Marshmallows

There are a few different methods you can use to flavor marshmallows, according to Chef Kierin: “If you are adding dry flavorings, such as spices, you can usually add them without making many other adjustments to the recipe."

For a subtle hint of flavor, adding liquid flavorings in a small quantity, like vanilla extract, won’t require a change to the recipe either. Alternatively, replacing some or all of the water for the gelatin bloom with a flavorful liquid — like juice or a fruit puree — can work.

“You may need to adjust the quantity of gelatin depending on what liquid you use, but it will vary from flavor to flavor,” Chef Kierin says.

Note that alcohol and some tropical fruits inhibit gelling, so you may need to adjust the recipe further if using those ingredients. Additionally, Chef Kierin recommends being cautious when adding ingredients with high fat content.

"You do have to avoid adding fat to the marshmallows, since this inhibits them from foaming as they whip," she says. "For something with a small amount of fat, such as cocoa powder, you can add a little extra gelatin to compensate. For anything with a higher amount of fat, you will need to make adjustments in the amount added, the amount of gelatin or the way it's incorporated, such as adding it as a swirl rather than fully incorporating it.”

Homemade s’mores are endlessly customizable. It may take some testing and research to get the marshmallows just the way you’d like, but that’s the same for any dish.

The recipe for Chef Kierin’s Sesame-Miso S’mores is below. Let us know in the comments if you’d like recipes for the other two!

Sesame-Miso S’mores

Makes 12 jumbo s’mores

24 sesame cookies (recipe below)
12 miso marshmallows (recipe below)
2-4 good quality milk chocolate bars, cut in halves or thirds to fit the sesame cookies

For the Sesame Cookies:

Makes approximately 24 cookies (2 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick)

115 grams unsalted butter
85 grams sesame tahini
200 grams granulated sugar
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 tsp vanilla extract
150 grams all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
Sesame seeds, as needed

For the Miso Marshmallows:

Makes one quarter sheet tray, or approximately 12 marshmallows (2 1/4" round)

215 grams glucose syrup
320 grams granulated sugar
125 grams cold water
31 grams silver sheet gelatin, halved
100 grams red miso paste
150 grams cornstarch
150 grams confectioner’s sugar

For the Sesame Cookies:

Combine the butter, tahini and granulated sugar in the bowl of a mixer and beat with the paddle attachment until light and fluffy.
Gradually add the egg, egg yolk and vanilla extract to the creamed butter mixture, scraping the bowl down to incorporate the butter evenly and to emulsify the mixture.
Combine the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt, and add them to the mixer bowl. Paddle until the dry ingredients are just incorporated, scraping down the bowl to evenly mix everything.
Place the cookie dough directly onto a sheet of parchment (you do not need to put any flour on the parchment) and put a second sheet of parchment on top. Roll out the dough until it’s about 1/4-inch thick and then place it in the refrigerator. Chill until the dough is firm.
While the dough chills, preheat the oven to 350˚F.
Once the dough is firm, cut it into 2 1/2-inch wide circles. (The parchment should pull easily away from the dough if it is firm. Before cutting, pull the parchment off one side, replace the parchment and then flip the dough to the other side and release the second sheet of parchment. The cookies should now release easily from the parchment as you cut them.)
Dip the top of each cookie in sesame seeds and place about two inches apart on a baking sheet.
Bake until the cookies are lightly brown on the edges, approximately 10-15 minutes.

For the miso marshmallows:

Combine the glucose syrup and sugar in a small pot and add just enough water to wet the sugar.
Place the scaled quantity of cold water (125 grams) in a mixer bowl and add the halved gelatin sheets a couple at a time to be sure they are all immersed in the water. Allow them to sit for 5-10 minutes to soften.
Place the miso paste in a heat-proof bowl.
Bring the glucose and sugar mixture to a boil and continue to cook until it reaches 236˚F.
Pour a small amount of the sugar syrup into the red miso paste and stir to loosen it up.
Pour the rest of the sugar syrup over the bloomed gelatin and stir to be sure all of the gelatin dissolves. Add the miso paste and whip the mixture using the whisk attachment until it has cooled almost to room temperature. This will take about 10-15 minutes.
While the marshmallow whips, prepare the pan: Mix the cornstarch and confectioner’s sugar to combine them thoroughly. Spray a quarter sheet pan with non-stick spray and then place a piece of parchment paper on the pan so it covers the bottom of the pan and comes up two of the sides. (It doesn’t really matter if you do this the short way or the long way; it just makes it easier to lift the marshmallows out of the pan once they are set.) Spray the parchment with non-stick spray and then sift a thin layer of the cornstarch mixture over the whole pan.
The marshmallows are done whipping when the mixture has gained volume, thickened and lightened. It will stop looking glossy and start to have a matte appearance. It will be thick enough that strands of the mixture pull from the side of the bowl as the whisk spins. Usually, the bowl will feel like it is only slightly warm to the touch at this point.
Pour the marshmallow mixture onto the prepared pan and spread it out as much as possible with a silicone spatula. (It will be sticky and hard to spread. Just spread it enough to mostly fill the pan.)
After it’s spread out somewhat, dip your hands in cold water and sprinkle a bit over the top of the marshmallow. Dip your hands again and then use the flats of your hands to gently but quickly pat the marshmallow down into an even layer that fills the pan. If your hands stick just dip them in the water again.
Once the marshmallow is spread evenly, put them in the fridge to set for about an hour or until most of the water has evaporated from the top of the marshmallows.
Once the marshmallow has dried out on top, sift a thin layer of the cornstarch mixture over the top of the marshmallows then wrap the tray and let them continue setting overnight at room temperature.
The next day, cut them into 2 1/4-inch circles using a round cookie cutter. Clean the cutter with warm water and dry between each cut. Toss the finished marshmallows in the cornstarch mixture to lightly coat them and hold them at room temperature.

For Assembly:

Place a piece of chocolate on the bottom of a cookie.
Place one of the marshmallows on a metal skewer or fork and toast it using a stovetop, kitchen torch or campfire, whichever you have handy until they are nicely browned and squishy. (You can also place them on a cookie and broil them quickly if that's the most convenient.)
Place the marshmallow on the chocolate on top of the cookie, top with another cookie and give it a nice squish so it oozes irresistibly. Enjoy immediately!
Repeat with the remaining cookies, marshmallows and chocolate.

Interested in exploring these confections? Practice making marshmallows and dive into other desserts in Pastry & Baking Arts at our New York City or Los Angeles campuses or in the online program.

Baking Arts Pastry Arts Fourth of July Recipe

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Recipe steps

Place a piece of chocolate on the bottom of a cookie.

Place one of the marshmallows on a metal skewer or fork and toast it using a stovetop, kitchen torch or campfire, whichever you have handy, until they are nicely browned and squishy. (You can also place them on a cookie and broil them quickly if that's the most convenient.)

Place the marshmallow on the chocolate on top of the cookie, top with another cookie and give it a nice squish so it oozes irresistibly. Enjoy immediately!

Repeat with the remaining cookies, marshmallows and chocolate.

Recipe: Show-Stopping Ube Basque Cheesecake

csale — Thu, 01 Aug 2024 18:58:21 +0000

Recipe: Show-Stopping Ube Basque Cheesecake csale Thu, 08/01/2024 - 14:58 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Ube%20Basque%20Cheesecake%20Header%20copy.jpg.webp?itok=6OCugKZg Chef-Instructor Trung Vu explains how to use baker’s percentages to manipulate a recipe August 2, 2024

By Cory Sale

This vibrant cake's gorgeous hue is sure to please a crowd.

Basque cheesecakes are enjoying the spotlight on social media right now. Their reach runs the gamut, with flavors ranging from traditional to experimental, including Thai milk tea, espresso-chocolate and everything in between.

"This style of cheesecake comes from the Basque region of Spain, with its most distinctive features being a deeply burnt top, a creamy interior and no separate graham cracker crust, as is common with American or New York-style cheesecakes," Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Trung Vu says.

After he wowed us with the colors of his rainbow crêpe cake, we asked Chef Trung to take the Basque cheesecake up a notch and flavor it with ube. The plan was a cheesecake with a dark brown, burnt top and a soft, purple, custardy interior.

Did he succeed? Yes, with flying colors. How’d he do it? Read on to find out.

A slice of Chef Trung's ube Basque-style cheesecake.

How to Adjust a Recipe

Chef Trung used a Basque cheesecake recipe from former Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Eric McIntyre as the starting point for his recipe testing.

He followed the recipe and baked the cheesecake to evaluate it as is (spoiler alert, it’s delicious). Happy with the recipe, Chef Trung chose not to adjust it too much with the exception of adding ube flavor.

Chef Trung converted all of the recipe’s measurements into grams so he could understand the relationship between the ingredients and easily manipulate them.

Baker’s Percentages

After testing Chef Eric’s cheesecake, Chef Trung researched other recipes to get a sense of how much ube can be incorporated. To do this, he calculated the baker’s percentages or the ratio of the ingredients to the dominant ingredient.

In this case, the dominant ingredient is cream cheese, because there is more cream cheese than any other ingredient. (Baker’s percentages are yet another reason why it’s imperative to measure by weight rather than by volume.)

For example, using the recipe below, divide the weight of the sugar by the cream cheese, then multiply by 100. So, (367g sugar/1221g cream cheese) x 100 = 30%, which is the percent of sugar in relation to the total weight of the cream cheese.

According to Chef Trung, “baker’s percentages enable chefs to modify ingredient quantities without changing the whole recipe, and with a lot of experience, help us predict what the finished product will be like.”

It’s important to note that baker’s percentages are a fraction of the dominant ingredient, meaning if you add them up, it will not equal 100%. The cream cheese is the dominant ingredient here so it will be 100%.

Baker’s percentages are often used in bread baking where flour is the dominant ingredient, and students in Pastry & Baking Arts and Artisan Bread Baking practice manipulating ingredients using the formula.

Percentages in Practice: All 51�Թ� Cake Math

Recipe Testing

In his research, Chef Trung found that cheesecake recipes have between 13-20% ube in relation to the total cream cheese. He made the Basque cheesecake again, incorporating ube halaya jam at 13% to test the flavor.

But Chef Trung wasn’t satisfied with the amount of ube coming through in the final product, so he upped the ube to 20%.

"This yielded an interesting and evolving flavor profile where cream cheese is still at the forefront, but after a moment on the palate, the ube flavor comes through and lingers," Chef Trung says. "I really enjoy when flavors are balanced but also dynamic. It makes things fun to eat."

Chef Trung pours the cheesecake batter into the pan.

When recipe testing, Chef Trung warns against making too many changes at once.

“Only change one element at a time, or it will be difficult to determine what’s causing a specific result,” he says.

It’s not easy to find fresh ube in New York City, so Chef Trung also experimented with different methods of adding ube flavor to the cheesecake.

After testing a few brands, he settled on ube jam to bring the natural ube flavor as well as ube extract for its concentrated flavor and color.

If you’d like to explore more with ube, Chef Trung thinks ube ice cream or an ube pie in the style of sweet potato pie would be delicious. Or, try this recipe for ube-flavored Portuguese custard tarts from Art of Cake Decorating Chef-Instructor Penny Stankiewicz.

Check out Chef Trung's final recipe below. Happy baking!

Ube Basque-Style Cheesecake

253 grams ube halaya jam
367 grams sugar
1221 grams cream cheese, softened
2 vanilla beans (alternatively, 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract)
272 grams sour cream (or crème fraîche)
300 grams of eggs (about 6 eggs)
80 grams egg yolks (about 4 egg yolks)
30 grams all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon and 1 teaspoon ube extract

Preheat oven to 450°F.
Line a 9.5”x3" springform pan with parchment paper so that the parchment covers the surface area of the interior and hangs up and over the sides. Place the lined pan onto a sheet tray and set aside.
In the bowl of stand mixer, cream ube jam and sugar until incorporated, using the paddle attachment.
Add the cream cheese and continue to cream until the mixture is smooth, homogenous and free of lumps. Occasionally scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula.
Split and scrape the vanilla beans into the batter. Blend until incorporated.
Add the sour cream and mix.
Add the eggs and yolks, one at a time, allowing each addition to incorporate.
Add the flour, blend thoroughly.
Add the ube extract and mix until incorporated.
Strain the mixture through a sieve to remove any chunks of cream cheese that were not incorporated.
Pour into springform pan and bake until the cheesecake reaches an internal temperature of about 160°F when tested with a probe thermometer (about one hour).
Remove from oven and allow to cool in the pan at room temperature for at least two hours.
Refrigerate for at least four hours or preferably overnight before serving.

Desserts Cheese & Dairy Baking Arts Pastry Arts

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Recipe steps

Preheat oven to 450°F.

Line a 9.5”x3" springform pan with parchment paper so that the parchment covers the surface area of the interior and hangs up and over the sides. Place the lined pan onto a sheet tray and set aside.

In the bowl of stand mixer, cream ube jam and sugar until incorporated, using the paddle attachment.

Add the cream cheese and continue to cream until smooth, homogenous and free of lumps. Occasionally scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula.

Split and scrape the vanilla beans into the batter. Blend until incorporated.

Add the sour cream and mix.

Add the eggs and yolks, one at a time, allowing each addition to incorporate.

Add the flour, blend thoroughly.

Add the ube extract and mix until incorporated.

Strain the mixture through a sieve to remove any chunks of cream cheese that were not incorporated.

Pour into springform pan and bake until the cheesecake reaches an internal temperature of about 160°F when taken with a probe thermometer (about one hour).

Remove from oven and allow to cool in the pan at room temperature for at least two hours.

Refrigerate for at least four hours or preferably overnight before serving.

Beat the Heat with Summer Squash

csale — Thu, 18 Jul 2024 16:09:02 +0000

Beat the Heat with Summer Squash csale Thu, 07/18/2024 - 12:09 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/GrowNYC%20Squash%20Header%20copy.jpg.webp?itok=ANwv1MPS No vegetables were cooked in the making of this recipe. July 19, 2024

By Cory Sale

The Institute of Culinary Education has teamed up with GrowNYC for a monthly series highlighting a seasonal ingredient at the greenmarket.

It’s July and it's hot. Temperatures were over 90˚F today in New York City, but Culinary Arts Chef-Instructor Chayanin “Nin” Pornsriniyom kept it cool at the greenmarket when demonstrating her recipe for Summer Squash with Moroccan Chermoula.

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Chef Nin used a variety of summer squash and zucchini as the base for the salad, peeling the vegetables into ribbons, like pasta. She chose to keep the squash raw to showcase its versatility.

"People tend to think of grilling or roasting when it comes to these vegetables," Chef Nin says. "But they're great raw."

That’s what makes this dish delightful when it’s too hot to cook — there’s no stove required.

Chef Nin decided to accompany the squash with chermoula, an herbaceous and spice-forward Moroccan sauce comprised of warming spices, parsley, cilantro and preserved lemon. Inspired by a similar chermoula she made while working at Dirt Candy, Chef Nin knew the mild flavor of summer squash would be a great canvas for the zesty sauce.

Chef Nin preparing chermoula.

As a final touch, Chef Nin topped the salad with a small dollop of labneh to round out the flavors with a little richness.

Summer squash's peak seasons are July and August, so make sure to get your squash soon if you want to make this recipe before summer ends. Here are Chef Nin’s tips:

Toast and grind your spices: Chef Nin insists this yields a more robust flavor than dried cumin and coriander could provide.
Don’t shave the squash to the core: Using a vegetable peeler, Chef Nin peeled the squash until she reached the seeds. She said the seeded part holds a lot of moisture and can make the salad soggy. But don’t discard the cores — shred them to include in zucchini bread or roast and snack on them.
Don’t over-mix the squash: Adding a little salt and lightly mixing the shaved squash helps condense the structure into a noodle-like form. Over-mixing at this step, and after the chermoula has been added, can make the dish too watery.

Chef Nin recommends serving this salad as a side to skirt steak or eating it with toast for a simple summer dinner. Chermoula is a versatile sauce and pairs nicely with grilled corn if squash isn’t your thing.

Check out the recipe below and let us know how your summer cooking goes.

Summer squash mixed with chermoula.

Summer Squash with Moroccan Chermoula

2 zucchini
2 yellow squash
¼ cup crème fraîche or labneh

For the chermoula:

1 bunch parsley, minced
1 bunch cilantro, minced
1/2 preserved lemon rind, minced
1 tablespoon whole cumin, toasted and ground
1 tablespoon whole coriander, toasted and ground
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt to taste

Thinly shave the squash and set aside.
In a bowl, mix together all of the ingredients for the chermoula and adjust salt to taste.
Lightly mix the squash with a small amount of salt, then add in the chermoula and gently combine.
Garnish with a dallop of labneh or cultured cream of choice.

Check out more seasonal recipes from this series:

Vegetables Recipe Summer Salads

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Recipe steps

Step 1 - Thinly shave the squash and set aside;

Step 2 - In a bowl mix together all of the ingredients for the chermoula and adjust salt to taste;

Step 3 - Lightly mix the squash with a small amount of salt then add in the chermoula and gently combine;

Step 4 - Garnish with a dallop of labneh or cultured cream of choice;

Can a Restaurant Do Well and Do Good at the Same Time?

ajohnson — Mon, 01 Jul 2024 19:06:54 +0000

Can a Restaurant Do Well and Do Good at the Same Time? ajohnson Mon, 07/01/2024 - 15:06 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/MAD%20panel%20header.JPG.webp?itok=BTgOXoBv July 2, 2024

By Cory Sale

The MAD Foundation, a non-profit organization founded by René Redzepi, the Chef and Owner of world-renowned restaurant Noma, recently hosted a panel discussion questioning if a restaurant can do well (meaning be profitable) and do good (meaning do right by their staff, community and the planet) at the same time.

Sharing their experiences and ideas were panelists Mark Bittman, food journalist and founder of Community Kitchen; Edward Lee, chef of 618 Magnolia and co-founder of The LEE Initiative; and Erin Wade, author and founder of Homeroom restaurant.

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So, can a restaurant do well and do good? All of the panelists said they believe it is possible, but acknowledge the road to get there isn’t easy and is filled with obstacles.

Here are some highlights from the conversation.

What does “doing good” look like for a restaurant?

When asked if he could make a restaurant that did everything right, Bittman said it would have to be a nonprofit. He’s in the process of creating Community Kitchen, a non-profit restaurant that aims to have positive community relationships and a sliding scale for payment, which would entail offering a discount to low-income customers and a tax on high-income customers.

Chef Lee’s idea of success added a focus on sustainability. He envisioned a future with zero gas and plastic pollution — or at least significant waste reduction.

Wade added equity and fair working conditions to the mix. Her hope is to see more restaurants led by people of color and by women. She said she wants businesses to focus on being collaborative, cooperative and meaningful, which, in practice, looks like employees being treated well, with open book policies in place to promote transparency within the business. She also supports restorative justice instead of discipline.

The list of ideal ways to "do good" is nearly endless. Some additional points mentioned by the panelists are:

Proper work-life balance for employees
Reducing a business' carbon footprint
Advocating for social justice
Providing physical accessibility to all customers
Meeting environmental sustainability goals

The big question is how to implement these progressive changes while still making a profit.

Learn More: Restaurant & Culinary Management at ICE

Chef Lee acknowledged that restaurants have run the same way for over 80 years and trying to get independent businesses to implement change is hard and takes time. For an owner to confront the challenge of doing right by their employees, community and the environment is an enormous task.

Chef Lee's non-profit, The LEE Initiative, tackles one of these issues at a time. They first create models using data, which allow restaurant owners to see how these systems work, with the intention for business owners to adopt the changes if they can. If everyone addresses a different problem, or even just part of one, Chef Lee envisions this knowledge and experience continually being shared and built-upon.

The panelists also emphasized the importance of thoughtful conversations, like this panel, and the power of using writing to create change.

Who can help restaurants?

Wade advocated for increased government regulation and support in areas from healthcare to education and environmental standards. She said if the US government offered universal healthcare for each citizen, then restaurants and other employers wouldn’t have to. She also cited wooden cutlery’s prominence in Europe after the E.U. banned disposable plastic cutlery as an example of how the U.S. government could take a stance to create and enforce environmental standards.

Wade also suggested that increased education around financial literacy would help anyone trying to start their own business in the restaurant industry and otherwise.

What can consumers do?

A restaurant owner in the audience expressed frustration with their experience trying to do well and good. As part of a bigger capitalist system, they cited how their impact would be a fraction of what McDonald’s impact would be if they both stopped purchasing plastic straws. And in the same vein, the owner spoke about how consumers aren’t motivated to go to good restaurants, as they want to go to "cool" restaurants.

Chef Lee’s response? You can’t lecture, yell or shame consumers or business partners into doing good. You need to find an incentive, not a disincentive. And you have to start somewhere.

As an example, Chef Lee shared an anecdote:

Realizing they had an excess of plastic spice containers, The LEE Initiative asked their supplier if they could return the plastic containers to be reused. The supplier declined. Chef Lee’s team contacted multiple spice companies to see if any would create a new system to reduce plastic. After multiple conversations, they found one small company open to working on their terms.

While this isn’t moving the needle right now, Chef Lee says he plans to promote what this spice company is doing and hopes other restaurants will take note. And in the future, he says their old supplier may start losing accounts, wonder why and then rethink their business practices.

When it comes to consumers, the panelists agreed that people should support the restaurants doing good in the industry and promote them.

Big thanks to MAD for such an interesting discussion!

Read MAD's official recap of the panel

Special Events Demos & Lectures Guest Lectures Restaurant Management

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Celebrate Pride Month with Chef Trung Vu’s Show-Stopping Rainbow Crêpe Cake

abaker — Tue, 18 Jun 2024 14:50:03 +0000

Celebrate Pride Month with Chef Trung Vu’s Show-Stopping Rainbow Crêpe Cake abaker Tue, 06/18/2024 - 10:50 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/crepe-cake-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=j_bSp4fn Get the lowdown on Chef Trung Vu’s Rainbow Crêpe Cake June 20, 2024

By Cory Sale

June is Pride Month and if you look around — at least here in New York City — there are pride flags flying high this month.

According to the National Museum of American History, this pride symbol was first created by Gilbert Baker and a group of activists and artists participating in the San Francisco 1978 Pride Parade. The initial flag had eight colors: red, pink, orange, yellow, green, turquoise, blue and purple; though it has been adjusted over time and new iterations have been created to reflect different pockets within the community.

The rainbow flag has come to symbolize the LGBTQ+ community’s diversity and unity.

For ICE Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Trung Vu, pride has many meanings.

“Pride is at the heart of all flags because you wear, display or fly them to show that you are proud of your country, your organization or even a part of your identity as with the rainbow flag.," Chef Trung says. "The pride flag means a lot to me because I remember the sense of unity in our community at my first gay pride and every one since. I think it promotes visibility, which can start dialogues and open the lines of communication. With time, I hope that can lead to a better understanding and maybe even acceptance that we are all the same.”

Chef Trung wanted to create a dessert that honors the spirit of Pride Month while also showcasing techniques students explore throughout the Pastry & Baking Arts program at ICE. He made a show-stopping rainbow crêpe cake, with layers of vibrant crêpes and diplomat cream filling.

When making this cake, Chef Trung started with the diplomat cream, which is a combination of pastry cream and whipped cream. Students in his Pastry & Baking Arts class become very familiar with this foundational custard because they practice making it several times in the curriculum, using it in fruit tarts, choux pastry and Napoleons, among many other dishes. Chef Trung finds that mixing the pastry cream with whipped cream gives it a better mouthfeel.

A few professional tips about pastry cream:

Once the eggs are tempered and the custard comes up to a boil, Chef Trung recommends whisking the boiling mixture constantly for about a minute. He says this will cook off the starchy flavor of the cornstarch and ensure the eggs don’t curdle.
When placing the cream in the fridge to chill, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface so it doesn’t form a skin.
You can make the pastry cream one to three days in advance and fold in the whipped cream when you’re assembling the cake. Chef Trung's ideal ratio is one part whipped cream to four parts pastry cream.

As for the crêpes, Chef Trung recommends making the batter a day in advance so the flour can fully hydrate — which will yield a looser, thinner batter that spreads more easily around the pan. Because food coloring deepens as it rests, Chef Trung cautions against adding the food color until after the batter has rested, so you know what the final colors will look like.

Don’t worry if the first few crêpes are flops. Chef Trung suggests using the first batch as a test to get a sense of how much batter to use and how long they take to cook. Flip the crêpes when the center looks set, and make sure to let them cool before building the cake.

When you’re ready to assemble, Chef Trung recommends using an ice cream scoop to portion the cream so there’s a consistent amount between the layers. Use an offset spatula to spread it thinly and evenly all the way out to the edges so the cake doesn’t become domed in shape.

If you want to put your own spin on the recipe, infuse the pastry cream with extracts or fruit zest. You could also adjust the colors or stack the layers differently to create flags that represent some of the different identities within the LGBTQ+ community.

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Have fun making this cake at home and celebrating Pride!

Rainbow Crêpe Cake

Yield: 1 8-inch cake

For the Diplomat Cream:

50 grams cornstarch
530 grams milk
125 grams sugar
55 grams whole eggs
75 grams egg yolks
60 grams butter
6 grams vanilla
250 grams heavy cream

For the Crêpes and Assembly:

170 grams all-purpose flour
40 grams sugar
5 grams salt
150 grams whole eggs
60 grams egg yolks
70 grams vegetable oil
370 grams whole milk
30 grams dark rum
Food coloring, as desired

For the Diplomat Cream:

Dissolve the cornstarch in some of the milk. Add approximately half of the sugar, all of the eggs and egg yolks and whisk to combine.
Combine the remaining milk and the rest of the sugar in a saucepan. Bring it up to a boil.
Temper the cornstarch mixture with some of the boiling mixture.
Return the remaining milk mixture to a boil. Whisk the cornstarch mixture into the boiling milk, whisking constantly until the pastry cream thickens and returns to a boil.
Boil the pastry cream and continue whisking for one minute. Remove from heat and whisk in the butter and vanilla.
Transfer to a bowl and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface. Place in the fridge to cool. Pastry cream can be made 1-3 days in advance.
When ready to assemble the crêpe cake, whip the heavy cream.
Using a paddle attachment, beat pastry cream to remove any chunks, and fold the whipped cream into the pastry cream using a 1:4 ratio of whipped to pastry creams.

For the Crêpes and Assembly:

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and blend with an immersion blender or regular blender.
Chill and allow to rest for several hours, strain if necessary.
If desired, separate the batter to mix with food coloring. If using liquid food coloring, slightly reduce the amount of milk in the recipe.
Heat a nonstick pan over medium-low, and spray with a non-stick cooking spray.
Ladle the batter into the pan and rotate pan to spread the batter evenly. (Chef Trung uses an 8-inch pan and 2 ounces of batter, but you can use whatever size pan you’d like and adjust the batter accordingly.)
When the center looks set, flip and cook the other side. Remove the pan and place onto a parchment-lined sheet tray.
Place the first crêpe down and spread diplomat cream onto the layer. Make sure to spread the cream all the way to the edges in a thin, even layer so the cake stays flat. Use an ice cream scoop to ensure consistent amounts of cream are between each layer so it looks even when cut.
Repeat this process as desired. Reserve the most beautiful crêpe for the top.
Let the cake sit in the fridge overnight or at least four hours to set before serving.

More from Chef Trung: An Introductory Guide to Vanilla

Pastry Arts Recipe

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Recipe steps

For the Diplomat Cream;

Step 1 -Dissolve the cornstarch in some of the milk. Add approximately half of the sugar, all of the eggs and egg yolks and whisk to combine;

Step 2 - Combine the remaining milk and the rest of the sugar in a saucepan. Bring it up to a boil;

Step 3 - Temper the cornstarch mixture with some of the boiling mixture;

Step 4 - Return the remaining milk mixture to a boil. Whisk the cornstarch mixture into the boiling milk, whisking constantly until the pastry cream thickens and returns to a boil;

Step 5 - Boil the pastry cream and continue whisking for one minute. Remove from heat and whisk in the butter and vanilla;

Step 6 - Transfer to a bowl and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface. Place in the fridge to cool. Pastry cream can be made 1-3 days in advance;

Step 7 - When ready to assemble the crêpe cake, whip the heavy cream;

Step 8 - Using a paddle attachment, beat the pastry cream to remove any chunks, and fold the whipped cream into the pastry cream using a 1:4 ratio of whipped to pastry creams;

For the Crêpes and Assembly;

Step 9 - Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and blend with an immersion blender or regular blender;

Step 10 - Chill and allow to rest for several hours, strain if necessary;

Step 11- If desired, separate the batter to mix with food coloring. If using liquid food coloring, slightly reduce the amount of milk in the recipe;

Step 12 - Heat a nonstick pan over medium-low, and spray with a non-stick cooking spray;

Step 13 - Ladle the batter into the pan and rotate pan to spread the batter evenly. (Chef Trung uses an 8-inch pan and 2 ounces of batter, but you can use whatever size pan you’d like and adjust the batter accordingly.);

Step 14 - When the center looks set, flip and cook the other side. Remove the pan and place onto a parchment-lined sheet tray;

Step 15 - Place the first crêpe down and spread diplomat cream onto the layer;
Step 16 - Make sure to spread the cream all the way to the edges in a thin, even layer so the cake stays flat. Use an ice cream scoop to ensure consistent amounts of cream are between each layer so it looks even when cut;

Step 17 - Repeat this process as desired. Reserve the most beautiful crêpe for the top;

Step 18 - Let the cake sit in the fridge overnight or at least four hours to set before serving;

Savory Rhubarb Recipe: Celebrate Spring with NYC's Greenmarket

abaker — Tue, 04 Jun 2024 14:24:10 +0000

Savory Rhubarb Recipe: Celebrate Spring with NYC's Greenmarket abaker Tue, 06/04/2024 - 10:24 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/Ann%20Ziata%20Rhubarb%20header.jpeg.webp?itok=LBIvCMqG Chef Ann Ziata proves this vegetable can do more than pie June 4, 2024

By Cory Sale

The Institute of Culinary Education has teamed up with GrowNYC for a monthly series highlighting a seasonal ingredient at the greenmarket.

ICE Chef Ann Ziata took this month’s collaboration with New York City’s Union Square greenmarket seriously and crafted a rhubarb crostini using only ingredients found at the market (in addition to salt and pepper).

Though this stalk vegetable is commonly found in desserts — think pies, tarts, jams and more — Chef Ann served it up in a savory bite.

"Rhubarb has a tangy, tart flavor and a cheerful, crimson-pink color skin covering its lime green interior," Chef Ann says. "It’s not naturally sweet but is usually cooked with fruit or sugar to balance its exceptionally pucker-y flavor. Its texture ranges from very crunchy to completely tender depending on how long it is cooked.”

The vegetable is in season in May and June in New York, so the time is ripe for experimentation. Chef Ann suggests sautéing, stewing and pickling, and admits she has a weakness for baked rhubarb.

“I am a sucker for baked rhubarb, cooked long enough to be tender while still holding its gorgeous shape," she says. "I am happy to enjoy it with some creamy yogurt and a little granola. And if it's baked into a pie or tart, even better.”

Chef Ann also recommends rhubarb jam because of it's simplicity.

"It doesn’t require any mashing, straining or thickening, and tastes better than candy,” she says.

If you get your hands on rhubarb this season, here are some tips from Chef Ann for working with it:

Rhubarb can get mushy quickly when cooking, so make sure you monitor it.
The leaves are toxic, don’t eat them!
If you find yourself wishing rhubarb season extended past June, buy a few extra stalks and store them in the freezer.

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Chef Ann's Hard Cider-Poached Rhubarb Crostini with Cheese and Mint is a low-input, high-reward dish that is sweet, tart and tangy all in one bite. Here’s the recipe so you can make it at home.

Hard Cider-Poached Rhubarb Crostini with Cheese and Mint

Yield: 51�Թ� 30 Crostini

1 pound rhubarb, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 1/2 cups hard cider (can use regular apple cider as well)
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup water
1 baguette, thinly sliced and toasted with olive oil
1 cup soft sheep's or goat's milk cheese
A few sprigs apple or lemon mint, torn
Salt
Fresh black pepper

Combine rhubarb, hard cider, maple syrup and water in a medium pot. Bring to a boil, then let simmer until rhubarb is tender, about 8-10 minutes. Strain the rhubarb; keep liquid and return to heat until reduced to a syrup.
Spread cheese on toasted baguette slices. Top with rhubarb compote and drizzle with reduction. Garnish with mint and season with salt and black pepper; serve immediately.

Try other recipes from our greenmarket series:

Partners Recipe Vegetables Vegetarian Plant-Based

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All 51�Թ� Aging Wine

abaker — Tue, 07 May 2024 18:45:46 +0000

All 51�Թ� Aging Wine abaker Tue, 05/07/2024 - 14:45 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/wine-aging-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=dbbgc09i And whether or not you can try it at home May 7, 2024

By Cory Sale

Saving a bottle of wine from a special occasion literally bottles up some of that joy for a future date. It can be a wine served at one’s wedding or a vintage from a child’s birth year. But is aging wine really as simple as leaving a bottle on the shelf?

With my wedding coming up, I’m thinking of how to extend the special day for years to come. Dean of Wine Studies and Master Sommelier Scott Carney, who teaches Intensive Sommelier Training at ICE’s New York campus, helped me dive into this ancient art to understand the benefits of aging wine and some tips to keep in mind during the process.

Related Read: Know Your Wedding Cake Math

Why Age Wine?

“Wine is thought to gain in complexity through its life, shedding the immediate attractiveness of youthful fruit and bringing about secondary and tertiary flavors and aromas that develop through the slow but sure ingress of oxygen through the bottle’s cork,” Scott says.

Aging wine doesn’t preserve the exact flavors and aromas of a wine, instead, it’s an opportunity to see how the wine changes from exposure to oxygen.

“One reason wine became so famous was its ability to change, and often improve, over time,” Scott says. "One of the joys of collecting wine is to, say, buy a case of wine and check in on it through its evolution. I like to say that when you've opened one and believe the wine has reached its 'peak,' that’s when you throw a dinner party, [and] open six bottles. But you also want to keep a bottle or two to witness its dignified decline as the wine wanes into old age."

How to Age Wine

Don’t just leave a bottle of wine on your shelf and call it aging. Scott recommends purchasing a wine refrigerator to have the most control over a wine’s storage conditions.

“A constant storage temperature of roughly 55°F with say 70% humidity is optimal for protecting a wine through its developmental stages.,” he says.

Even if you don’t have much space, Scott says there are small wine storage units available for apartments that can store 25-30 bottles.

As for how to physically store wine, Scott advises laying red and white cork-formatted bottles on their side. This will keep the wine in contact with the cork, ensuring that the cork stays moist, and does not dry out and shrink. Corks allow a very small controlled amount of oxygen to be exposed to a wine, which as Scott mentioned above, is a major part of the aging process. If a cork shrivels, you lose some of that control and the wine may over-oxidize.

Store bottles with their labels face up for easy identification, “but, more importantly in the case of red wines, any sediment precipitated over time will fall to the back side of the bottle and be decanted away from the wine that will be drunk,” Scott says.

Additional storage tips from Scott include avoiding placing the bottles around any bright lights as these rays can damage wine. He also notes that there shouldn’t be “any constant or even occasional vibration near the storage unit as the agitation can unduly act upon the wine’s development.”

Related: How to Choose a Wine Glass

Selecting Wines for Aging

Some types of wine are better suited for aging than others.

“Not all wines are intended to be aged,” Scott says. “Many are ‘drink the current vintage wines,’ [which]…are prized for their immediate attraction of fresh vivacity and fruity charm.”

This means many wines won’t benefit from aging. Though they won’t degrade after a year, these wines should be consumed within a reasonable amount of time.

One varietal that Scott says is traditionally good for aging is Cabernet Sauvignon.

According to Scott, when you want to age a wine, “you are looking for a structural dimension — a constellation of tannins, alcohol and acids — that forecast staying power. To simplify, Pinot Noir is a thinner-skinned grape than Cabernet. Thicker skins are where you find the tannins that would bring about aging capacity. So, while Pinot Noir is certainly ageable, it is not thought to be as long-lived as wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon.”

You can also ask your local wine store for a recommendation for a bottle that can benefit from aging.

How Long Should Wine Be Aged?

According to Scott, “Wines that are expected to improve over time are frequently given estimated ‘drink ranges’ by wine journalists.”

For example, a wine journalist may recommend consuming a specific bottle between 2030-2035.

“In this way, different wines have different drinking windows," Scott says. "These recommendations are rough estimates that first pre-suppose perfect storage and second are only educated guesses.”

The best way to fully evaluate wine is by opening a bottle to taste and smell the wine itself. Use the wine’s color, aroma and flavor to determine how it’s aged, or if it was aged past its prime.

“In the case of an aged red wine, one that is over the hill will have lost much of its ruby color and would appear garnet or brown. On the nose, the fruit would be dried out or disappeared with some vinegary notes and earthy sometimes fecal unattractive smells,” Scott says.

The topic comes up in ICE's Intensive Sommelier Training course. Scott says that trying over-aged wines let students contrast the traits against well-aged, pure wines so they can learn to distinguish between the two.

A major takeaway from my conversation with Scott was the importance of caring properly for wine. While, I don’t think a wine fridge is in my future, many of the storage tips above are applicable to the wines in my home (which are currently standing upright, directly beneath a light). Thanks to his achievable, small changes, my storage setup will definitely be changing soon.

Want to Cook with Wine? Try our Coq Au Vin recipe.

Wine Intensive Sommelier Training Drinks

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Chef Jürgen’s Favorite Brownies

abaker — Thu, 25 Apr 2024 20:32:50 +0000

Chef Jürgen’s Favorite Brownies abaker Thu, 04/25/2024 - 16:32 /sites/default/files/styles/width_1400/public/content/blog-article/header-image/epi-brownies-HERO.jpg.webp?itok=hO2o5gBS Fruit, nuts and a topping, this brownie hits every note. April 30, 2024

By Cory Sale

In a recent video with Epicurious, ICE's Director of Pastry Research & Development Jürgen David blind taste-tested prominent boxed and premade brownies commonly found in grocery stores. He sampled over 10 different brands, evaluated the depth of flavor and texture and deduced how the ingredients for each brownie influenced the final product.

Spoiler alert, none of the brownies he tasted were a 10 out of 10 in his book. So, what does Chef Jürgen look for in this sweet treat? A fudgy brownie with a shiny crust, more chocolate than cocoa powder, and mix-ins for added texture.

Luckily for you, he shares his favorite brownie recipe below. It’s very chocolatey, with melted chocolate and cocoa powder mixed into the batter, added chocolate chips and a rich, chocolate ganache topping. The small percentage of flour translates to a fudgy texture, and whipping the eggs helps to dissolve the sugar to help form a crust on top. Dried cherries are plumped in orange juice that contributes a sweet, sunny tartness, and chopped walnuts bring even more texture.

Don’t like cherries? Omit them! Not a fan of walnuts? Swap for a nut of your choice. The chocolate ganache takes the brownies to a whole new level of decadence, but they can stand without it should you opt-out.

One more tip from Chef Jürgen: Coat the walnuts and chocolate chips with a little bit of the flour mixture so they don’t sink to the bottom.

Chef Jürgen’s Favorite Brownies

Yields: 20 2.5x3” brownies

For the Brownies:

120 mililiters orange juice
90 grams dried cherries
6 eggs
480 grams granulated sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla
380 grams semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped in small pieces
240 grams butter
150 grams all-purpose flour
30 grams cocoa powder
1 teaspoon salt
90 grams walnuts, coarsely chopped
45 grams chocolate chips (can swap in dark, milk or white chocolate, chopped)

For the Ganache:

200 mililiters heavy cream
200 grams chocolate

For the Brownies:

Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Make an “X” with nonstick cooking spray on a half-sheet pan and line it with parchment paper; this prevents the parchment paper from sliding in the pan.
In a saucepan, bring the orange juice and the dried cherries to a boil. Set aside to cool.
Heat the chocolate and butter in a bain-marie until just melted.
Whisk the eggs, vanilla and sugar in a mixer until light in color and mixture is very fluffy.
Pour the chocolate and butter into the egg mixture, adding it all at once with the mixer turned off to prevent it from setting up in little pieces.
Sift the all-purpose flour, cocoa powder and salt into the egg and chocolate mixture and mix until just combined.
Add the walnuts, chocolate chips, cherries and the soaking liquid, and mix just enough to combine.
Using an offset spatula, spread the batter on the prepared half-sheet pan. Bake the brownies at 350°F for 10–15 minutes, or until a knife or skewer comes out clean.

For the Ganache:

Prepare the ganache by warming the heavy cream and pouring it over the chocolate. Let it sit for a few minutes, then stir to combine.
Spread the cooling ganache over the brownies.
Cut the brownies into rectangles and serve.

*This recipe is from the French Culinary Institute.

More recipes from Chef Jürgen:

Epicurious