ICE at 50: Maxime Bilet, JBF Award-Winning Co-Author of "Modern Cuisine," Is On a Purpose-Filled Journey

Passion, purpose and risk-taking are all part of the plan.
Sean Creamer
Maxime Bilet stands against black background wearing white chef coat, gray apron and curly black hair.

To celebrate 50 years of ICE, we're honoring 50 distinguished ICE alumni. Meet Maxime Bilet, food nonprofit founder and co-author of the James Beard Award-winning cookbook "Modernist Cuisine." 

ICE 50th anniversary distinguished alumni honoree Maxime Bilet is the President and Founder of Imagine Food Innovation Group, a nonprofit that highlights the relationships between food, science, art and history through themed events and hands-on cooking courses.

Hes also the co-author of the groundbreaking and James Beard Award-winning "Modernist Cuisine," a cookbook tome that helps to demystify the science of cooking for both professional chefs and home cooks.

But while his thoughtful cookbooks, community-driven nonprofit work, and culinary innovation through research and development have made Bilet a professional force, its his spiritual philosophy and passion for taking risks that inform his personal growth. 

In a recent Q&A, Bilet considered the ideas, mentors and culinary school lessons and memories that guide him. Read on for his musings. 

*The following interview has been condensed and edited for clarity. 


ICE: What do you consider to be your biggest professional achievements so far?

Maxime Bilet: At 42, Im still as curious as ever. Im learning more than ever, and Ive maintained my lifelong love affair with food and feeding others.

Outwardly, I dont feel Ive reached the peak of what I want to leave behind. Im proud of "Modernist Cuisine," the nonprofit work I did with the City of Seattle, and all the R&D projects Ive been a part of since.

ICE: Im guessing that feeding people is the most rewarding part of your work?

MB: Yes. Its at the heart of my relationship with food and the one thing that has never changed. In those moments, I feel most aligned with my purpose.

ICE: When did you realize this was your passion, and when did that turn into I want to work in food?

MB: It was always there, but I only considered it professionally in college. I was actually planning to join the Peace Corps, but delays in my citizenship led me to explore becoming a chef. Thats when I discovered ICE.

ICE: Before you enrolled, what made ICE feel like a good fit for you?

MB: Timing. I had just finished college, I was in my home city, and ICE offered a condensed culinary intensive that worked for me.

ICE: ICE is celebrating its 50-year anniversary this year, but next month marks your 20-year ICE graduation anniversary. When you think of your time at ICE, whats the first word that comes to mind and why?

MB:Oui + Chef Ted + Einav.
Before Top Chef and the explosion of chef culture, Yes, chef was new to me. Chefs Einav Gefen and Ted Siegel embodied humility, selflessness, perseverance and excellence. Ive never looked up to anyone more.

ICE: What did you learn at ICE that helped you at the start of your career, and how was that student-to-real world transition?

MB: My career began with my externship at Jacks Luxury Oyster Bar. I ended up as head chef almost by accident. I was terrified [because] I had no restaurant experience. As unusual as that may be, I would say to current and future students that opportunities often come when you least expect them, and that you should trust yourself to take them, regardless of your experience. Skills are teachable; bring your passion, and check your ego outside.

ICE: Given that passion and creativity are so closely related, can you describe your creative process?

MB: I see creation as this undefinable substance with an infinite potential of manifestations. In its raw form, it can be absolute chaos for the human mind. I learned early on that I was comfortable immersing myself, philosophically, in that chaos more so than remaining immersed in the restrictions of certainty.

Over time, Ive learned that these restrictions are one and the same, and [Ive also learned] to better organize, funnel and harness the immense potential of relinquishing control entirely.

ICE: Wow. Speaking of the human mind, does yours have memories from ICE maybe a funny moment, a proud achievement, or a recipe that really captivated you?

MB: Chef Einav always reminds me of the rabbit tasting menu I made for her during the final exam. Deconstructed anything was the coolest thing then. I made a rabbit loin galantine/roulade, rabbit consomm矇 in a champagne glass, and a rabbit rillette ... in a ravioli or pastry? I cant remember the specifics.

As a rule, I don't play things safe, which is not the same as being unsafe. When we cook for someone, we bear our creative spirits and we make ourselves vulnerable to their criticism. The creative process will inevitably be imperfect and yield imperfect results. 

People will also be imperfect in their observations and criticisms. If you want to excel at your craft, you have to take the risk of being imperfect and practice doing so as frequently as possible.

ICE: It sounds like risk-taking is foundational to your success. Are there other attributes youd credit?

MB: Passion. Pure, untethered passion. It's the driving force behind my willingness to take paths unknown.

ICE: Do you have any advice for people thinking about going to culinary school and hoping for a career path similar to yours?

MB: Ive had many mentors and prot矇g矇s over the past 20 years. True mentorship means guiding others to be the best version of themselves. If I could talk to my 2006 ICE self, Id say, "Time goes by faster than you think, so dont waste it. Turn your back on fear, but never on Peter Pan." Meaning, dont lock yourself into a fixed view. Always let yourself play.

ICE: Lets switch gears and talk about your favorite foods and recipes and more personal food endeavors. Whats your favorite food city?

MB: Every city has a culinary soul, but Beirut circa 2006 stands out. Lebanese food was my favorite food growing up. I vividly remember the flavor and textures of a raw lamb kefta dish with lots of fresh herbs that we ate in the mountains above the city.  A woman made paper-thin bread at the center of the restaurant. The kindness with which it was prepared and served was unforgettable.

ICE: Whats your go-to easy recipe for a casual night at home?

MB: I love cooking legumes: flageolets, canary beans, lentils, chickpeas. Soaking them in soft water, cooking in hard water, and controlling turbulence keeps them intact. My recent favorite is a mayocoba bean cassoulet with romesco sauce, braised kale, garlic confit, and good sliced bratwurst and the cassoulet is finished in the air fryer.

ICE: Do you have a recipe you always turn to when you want to impress friends or guests?

MB: Maple sugar cured king salmon. Its wet-cured for eight hours and cooked at 45.5簞C to the core, served with a dry tart cherry & mustard seed condiment, creamy amaranth, and fresh crunchy garnishes. Easy wow.

ICE: Is there an ingredient you find yourself using constantly, beyond the usual staples?

MB: Green onions. Theyre the most versatile form of allium savory sulfur plus sweetness without overpowering. I use them abundantly in stocks and sauces, as the focal point and as the sidekick. Ive been loving freeze-dried scallions recently, too.

ICE: Is there a person, book, place, movie, or other reference you consider a major inspiration?

MB: As a kid, I watched Emeril Lagasse on Food Network in 1994. Lagasse is a surreal figure that loved what he was doing, and while many poked fun at his salesmanship and trademark Bam!, to me, he is a man with conviction with an authentic connection to his craft. Later in life, Thomas Keller and Charlie Trotter were my idols. Eventually, I had the privilege of knowing them as colleagues and friends, but they remain my heroes.

QUICKFIRE QUESTIONS

Favorite kitchen tool? Mandolin.

Salty or sweet? Sweet-salty.

Favorite food holiday? Any holiday in New Orleans.

Cook, bake, eat in order of preference? Cook, eat, Cook, eat, cook, eat, bake.

Favorite cuisine? Cambodian.

Favorite food season? Spring.

Sean Creamer

Sean is a freelance writer at the 51勛圖 (ICE), combining his passion for food with his storytelling expertise. An outdoor enthusiast interested in adventure writing, he enjoys exploring new recipes, visiting local markets and experiencing culinary diversity in New York City.