51�Թ�

The process is simply applying a dry rub, cure or brine in which the main component is salt (kosher or sea salt) with the possible addition of other aromatics like black pepper, garlic, fresh or dried herbs, spices or sugar. With a brine, add a dry rub or cure to a liquid base, such as water, stock or broth bouillon with optional fruit juices, cider or alcohol.

The primary phase of curing and preserving is coating the protein with the salt cure and allowing it to sit for a specific amount of time, which is determined by a temperature, weight and size relationship. A brine functions as a marinade when the protein is submerged in it. Salt is the primary flavor enhancer, but it is critically pulling moisture out of the muscle fibers and dehydrating them. This process will prevent pathogens from contaminating the meat, which would make it unsafe to consume. Once the protein has been cured for the appropriate amount of time, it is removed from the dry rub cure and lightly washed with wine or water to remove excess rub, dried, then hung to start the aging process. This is again based on temperature, time, weight and size, with humidity factored into the equation.

During the aging process, the protein starts developing its specific flavor profile. While it's hanging and air drying, a fermentation process is occurring, in which acids (particularly lactic acid produced by lactobacillus bacteria) are cooking the muscle fibers, breaking down connective tissue for tenderization, and fighting off pathogenic micro-organisms that do not like acid, such as clostridium botulinum bacteria that cause the foodborne illness, botulism. Even though the process is simple in concept, there is a complicated science that drives it and an intuitive aspect, which cannot simply be defined by sight, touch, smell or taste.

Another important factor in flavor development is terroir, which can be affected by:

• breed or variety of animals or livestock
• diet of the animal-specific types of fatty acids concentrated in body fat and muscle fibers
• air animals breathe
• water animals drink
• pharmaceuticals (steroids, growth hormones, antibiotics)
• micro-organisms in the soil of the crops that the animals feed on
• conventional vs. organic crops
• use of GMOs 
• how much the animals exercise
• whether the animals are raised humanely or cruelly
• how the animals are slaughtered
• how the carcasses are handled after slaughtering
• micro-organisms in the environment where the meat is aged

A very simple preparation to start out with, particularly for those intimidated by this process, is a "prosciutto" (usually dry cured ham) of duck or goose. It does not require a lot of time, ingredients or space to accomplish this. Normally, the breasts are simply cured with salt and aromatics for a day or two depending on the size. The breast of a Moularde duck is ideal — a hybrid of a female Pekin and male Muscovy duck, the breed is used primarily for the production of foie gras in North America and Europe, and it is larger and more flavorful than a Pekin duck breast. 

Duck and goose prosciutto is a specialty of a few regions of Northern Italy, such as Alto-Adige (the Italian Tyrol), the Aosta Valley, and the Alpine zones of Piedmonte, Lombardy and Friuli-Venezia Guilia. Ducks and geese are basic staples here, where duck fat and goose fat are important cooking mediums. In fact, both cook with virtually no olive oil in Alto-Adige, because of the cold, temperate Alpine climate.

As previously pointed out, the salt is not just providing flavor but has a preservation effect and tenderizing effect by breaking down and gelatinizing the proteins in the muscle fibers, which has the same function as “cooking” the protein. The prosciutto does not need fancy garnishes or sauces that would detract from the subtle flavors or silky textures of the finished product. Here's a recipe to see the salt effect.